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THEMA: MINITRIX ICE1 REPARATUR FÞR KurvenfahrtFAHREN
THEMA: MINITRIX ICE1 REPARATUR FÞR KurvenfahrtFAHREN
Vadim - 16.09.09 12:41
GutenTag!
Sorry, i begin at English,
It's too fiddly for me to be logged in withoun knowledge of deutsch!
I know well only english.
I m N-gauger from Russia.
My traum was to get ICE1 or ICE3 train for my layout, because Russian 've started using ICE between Moscow and St.Pitersburg.
As i understood ICE 1 at N-Scale has only miniTRIX.
As to ICE3 - they made by Arnold and Minitrix, but both without directional lights and intrerior light. Moreover, after hardworking on capital repairing of Arnold "Helvetia" i ll newer buy Arnold at all!
As a result, i v got MINITRIX ICE1 12564
But when i tried to ride it, i found that a good looking 4 car TRAIN ICE 1 TRIX 12564 with interior lights have some dramatical disadvantages, making this train only like fairy TOY, but not as a proffessional train!
Now i ll try to tell us about them and their repair in this tpoic:
-IMPROOVING PROPULSIVE PERFORMANCE:
This Loco have bad current pickup going to slope tracks on turns because of all loco wheels are fixed in plane of every truck and both trucks of loco are also fixed in horisontal plane of loco which are perpendicular to direcrion of ride.
The main AXIOM for trucks and axles of good cureently pickuped LOCO is :
"ALL WHEELS OF LOCO MUST TOUCH THE RAILS IN ANY CASE OF RAIL CURVATURE..."
Now i tell about my Solutions of repair:
A- TRUCKS SPRINGS:
I made 4 horisontal rod-like springs (on american manner of loco constructions) to suspend both trucks on 4 horisontal joints. These springs are parallel to loco's movement direction, and settled up horizontally from both sides of both trucks, and are connected to the body of loco from the one side and touches truck's joint's from the other side. The width of joint holes in loco body must be also increased to make trucks be flexible at cross cut angles. 4 Springs must be conductive to improve current transfer from metallic trucks to body (one of pole). Special 4 rows in body of loco are notched for these sprigs to be free.
B- AXLE SPRINGS:
In every trucks I notch by dremel lower plastic part of trucks under each bearing to free them in vertical axis about 1 mm. Then i drill small hole in metallic part of truck, parallel to axles between them. Upper parts of bearing-support in all trucks must be also nothched in aim to make springs electrically and mechanically connected to bearings. Then i make 4 special springs (2 for one truck) ("N" shaped but angle = 90deg) . A special small rows in metallic part of trucks must be also dremmeld in aim to make springs to be free when they covered by plastic electric pickup U-shaped cover and when loco is riding along "aqueduckt". Then, i put 4 springs in 2 truck's holes so that middle part of springs occurs in center holes, perpendicular to motion direction, and they ends touches bearings of axles crosswise, then i put plastic cover with current pickup, bottom parts of trucks and.... assembled full loco.
The rigidity of springs must be set up so that when You load full ballast weights, all axles must lie down on to arresters in aim for loco to stand vertically by using working catenary .
This "suspension" of wheels must be do for both: hot and cool loco.
Car wheels - have good old MINITRIX dynamic properties and leaved without any repair
C- TRUCKS CURRENT PICKUP: I Removed second current pickup springs between loco body and trucks. They prevented to move trucks freely. They d been substituted by extra thin and flexible wires from Nokia HandSet
2- ELECTRIC SHORT PROTECTION OF CONDUCTIVE COUPLING!
For Short circuit protection of conductive couplings which transfers light signals from decoder (they are about 0.5 mm near rails and may touch rails on turn - slopes ) a 0.5 K resistor should be mounted sequentally to the motherboard of loco. Otherwise diode and decoder light channel may be fired up by accindental touching rails during ride of train.
Another solution - disconnect metallic coupling and use 3 constant wires across all train for inmrooving current pickup and uninterrupable lightnings in all cars
3- FLEXIBILITY OF COUPLINGS
TRIX factory conductive couplings made without vertical backlash!!!!!!!!!
(I m fully worry about it! Even if i ll remove locks on knuckles, backlash would be not so big and not so free!!!!)
Therefore one coach may raise other coach on slope, cancel current pickup and lights turns of, so, wheels can be off rails, and train usually crashes!
Therefore i cut off knuchles and drilled 0.5mm holes at the ends of coupling's rods (in parallel of wheel axles )
then i made 16 mm long alluminium coupling with joints in both sides. Each joint had 2 ears with also 0.5 mm holes. Then i joined all coaches by thin (0.5mm) metallic wires, putted into these holes of ears and of rest of coupling's rods.
4- CUR CURRENT PICKUP springs must be remade as follows: Cut ends and solder round-rod contacts. Flat contacts havent any ability for dirt self-removing and aftr 30 min of riding loose current pickup properties.
--------------
So, my TRAIN becomes nonseparable, but with good performance qualities!
---------
Sorry for my rough English.
But who knows about more workable model of ICE3 - please write about it, i want to get ICE3 for my layout.
Sorry, i begin at English,
It's too fiddly for me to be logged in withoun knowledge of deutsch!
I know well only english.
I m N-gauger from Russia.
My traum was to get ICE1 or ICE3 train for my layout, because Russian 've started using ICE between Moscow and St.Pitersburg.
As i understood ICE 1 at N-Scale has only miniTRIX.
As to ICE3 - they made by Arnold and Minitrix, but both without directional lights and intrerior light. Moreover, after hardworking on capital repairing of Arnold "Helvetia" i ll newer buy Arnold at all!
As a result, i v got MINITRIX ICE1 12564
But when i tried to ride it, i found that a good looking 4 car TRAIN ICE 1 TRIX 12564 with interior lights have some dramatical disadvantages, making this train only like fairy TOY, but not as a proffessional train!
Now i ll try to tell us about them and their repair in this tpoic:
-IMPROOVING PROPULSIVE PERFORMANCE:
This Loco have bad current pickup going to slope tracks on turns because of all loco wheels are fixed in plane of every truck and both trucks of loco are also fixed in horisontal plane of loco which are perpendicular to direcrion of ride.
The main AXIOM for trucks and axles of good cureently pickuped LOCO is :
"ALL WHEELS OF LOCO MUST TOUCH THE RAILS IN ANY CASE OF RAIL CURVATURE..."
Now i tell about my Solutions of repair:
A- TRUCKS SPRINGS:
I made 4 horisontal rod-like springs (on american manner of loco constructions) to suspend both trucks on 4 horisontal joints. These springs are parallel to loco's movement direction, and settled up horizontally from both sides of both trucks, and are connected to the body of loco from the one side and touches truck's joint's from the other side. The width of joint holes in loco body must be also increased to make trucks be flexible at cross cut angles. 4 Springs must be conductive to improve current transfer from metallic trucks to body (one of pole). Special 4 rows in body of loco are notched for these sprigs to be free.
B- AXLE SPRINGS:
In every trucks I notch by dremel lower plastic part of trucks under each bearing to free them in vertical axis about 1 mm. Then i drill small hole in metallic part of truck, parallel to axles between them. Upper parts of bearing-support in all trucks must be also nothched in aim to make springs electrically and mechanically connected to bearings. Then i make 4 special springs (2 for one truck) ("N" shaped but angle = 90deg) . A special small rows in metallic part of trucks must be also dremmeld in aim to make springs to be free when they covered by plastic electric pickup U-shaped cover and when loco is riding along "aqueduckt". Then, i put 4 springs in 2 truck's holes so that middle part of springs occurs in center holes, perpendicular to motion direction, and they ends touches bearings of axles crosswise, then i put plastic cover with current pickup, bottom parts of trucks and.... assembled full loco.
The rigidity of springs must be set up so that when You load full ballast weights, all axles must lie down on to arresters in aim for loco to stand vertically by using working catenary .
This "suspension" of wheels must be do for both: hot and cool loco.
Car wheels - have good old MINITRIX dynamic properties and leaved without any repair
C- TRUCKS CURRENT PICKUP: I Removed second current pickup springs between loco body and trucks. They prevented to move trucks freely. They d been substituted by extra thin and flexible wires from Nokia HandSet
2- ELECTRIC SHORT PROTECTION OF CONDUCTIVE COUPLING!
For Short circuit protection of conductive couplings which transfers light signals from decoder (they are about 0.5 mm near rails and may touch rails on turn - slopes ) a 0.5 K resistor should be mounted sequentally to the motherboard of loco. Otherwise diode and decoder light channel may be fired up by accindental touching rails during ride of train.
Another solution - disconnect metallic coupling and use 3 constant wires across all train for inmrooving current pickup and uninterrupable lightnings in all cars
3- FLEXIBILITY OF COUPLINGS
TRIX factory conductive couplings made without vertical backlash!!!!!!!!!
(I m fully worry about it! Even if i ll remove locks on knuckles, backlash would be not so big and not so free!!!!)
Therefore one coach may raise other coach on slope, cancel current pickup and lights turns of, so, wheels can be off rails, and train usually crashes!
Therefore i cut off knuchles and drilled 0.5mm holes at the ends of coupling's rods (in parallel of wheel axles )
then i made 16 mm long alluminium coupling with joints in both sides. Each joint had 2 ears with also 0.5 mm holes. Then i joined all coaches by thin (0.5mm) metallic wires, putted into these holes of ears and of rest of coupling's rods.
4- CUR CURRENT PICKUP springs must be remade as follows: Cut ends and solder round-rod contacts. Flat contacts havent any ability for dirt self-removing and aftr 30 min of riding loose current pickup properties.
--------------
So, my TRAIN becomes nonseparable, but with good performance qualities!
---------
Sorry for my rough English.
But who knows about more workable model of ICE3 - please write about it, i want to get ICE3 for my layout.
Fleischmann produces both types as well.
PJH
PJH
Hi vadim,
did you ever hear about Fleischmann? http://www.fleischmann.de
Fleischmann is producing an ICE1, ICE 2 and ICE-T (the "swing"), which are of better quality as the kind of historical ICE1 from Minitrix. Unfortunately the prices from Fleischmann are according to the level of quality a bit higher.
I fully share your concerns about Arnold, in this case the new founded Hornby/Arnold, as this company is still working to find their way in getting closer to an acceptable level of quality. They have announced a new version of the ICE3 for this year (?), don't know actually if it is a revised or a new version. The ICE3 from Mintrix is a cheap hobby version and might require a bit work to meet our expectations. I do not plan to purchase, however in this community here there are a couple of people who can share their experience.
I would recommend, as I fully understand that you are very keen on this ICE3, to wait until the Hornby/Arnold ICE3 is on the market and the first feedback is visible in the www.
Hope this brings you a bit further.
Regards Claus
did you ever hear about Fleischmann? http://www.fleischmann.de
Fleischmann is producing an ICE1, ICE 2 and ICE-T (the "swing"), which are of better quality as the kind of historical ICE1 from Minitrix. Unfortunately the prices from Fleischmann are according to the level of quality a bit higher.
I fully share your concerns about Arnold, in this case the new founded Hornby/Arnold, as this company is still working to find their way in getting closer to an acceptable level of quality. They have announced a new version of the ICE3 for this year (?), don't know actually if it is a revised or a new version. The ICE3 from Mintrix is a cheap hobby version and might require a bit work to meet our expectations. I do not plan to purchase, however in this community here there are a couple of people who can share their experience.
I would recommend, as I fully understand that you are very keen on this ICE3, to wait until the Hornby/Arnold ICE3 is on the market and the first feedback is visible in the www.
Hope this brings you a bit further.
Regards Claus
Hello Vadim,
just as Pajo @1 and ClausS @2 wrote, the Fleischmann company also produces ICE3, which is a quite workable model. By the way, You did a damn good job, when rebuilding/repairing the Minitrix ICE1, my congratulations!
The Fleischmann ICE3 is a very good equivalent to the russian SAPSAN (Сапсан), because Siemens used ICE3 for the further development, which led to the russian Velaro-RUS SAPSAN. If You know how to rebuild and repaint ICE3, then You will get a suitable SAPSAN ...
Very much I regret that over here almost nothing is known about Russian N-scale model-railroaders. Indeed, inside different Russian towns i was looking for the stores of model railways, but i was unable to find. Only the old Piko models from the production of the GDR are well known. Although everywhere along the russian tracks very interesting locomotives and wagons are easy to find. Только модели 1:160 нет, к сожалению...
Привет и всего доброго
Berthold
Впрочем, у меня просьба: когда Вы знаете магазин в Москве, пожалуйста, адрес магазина записывайте!
just as Pajo @1 and ClausS @2 wrote, the Fleischmann company also produces ICE3, which is a quite workable model. By the way, You did a damn good job, when rebuilding/repairing the Minitrix ICE1, my congratulations!
The Fleischmann ICE3 is a very good equivalent to the russian SAPSAN (Сапсан), because Siemens used ICE3 for the further development, which led to the russian Velaro-RUS SAPSAN. If You know how to rebuild and repaint ICE3, then You will get a suitable SAPSAN ...
Very much I regret that over here almost nothing is known about Russian N-scale model-railroaders. Indeed, inside different Russian towns i was looking for the stores of model railways, but i was unable to find. Only the old Piko models from the production of the GDR are well known. Although everywhere along the russian tracks very interesting locomotives and wagons are easy to find. Только модели 1:160 нет, к сожалению...
Привет и всего доброго
Berthold
Впрочем, у меня просьба: когда Вы знаете магазин в Москве, пожалуйста, адрес магазина записывайте!
Beitrag editiert am 16. 09. 2009 15:29.
Thanks to all
I know Fleishmann, that it's a very good company.
But how about Fleishman ICE 3 ?
Do You know any survey or story about it's test and detailed description ?
I was at Fleishmans web, but they havent any English version, and i cannot read anything.
Maybe anybody have PDF or link with documentation for ICE 3?
----
As to Russia, there are H0 and TT scale more popular, and in st.Pitersburg some companies are making models of soviet locos and cars.
And on the contrary, there are little N-gaugers in Russia and there are no national rolling stock at all! I use only models of russian locos which was exported by Soviet Union to EU and which models was occasionaly made in Germany. In addition, some USA rolling stock very like as Russian. Generally there are few such Russian-like models.
Although - there are very famous trains and locos which models, probably would be very popular in other countries.
For example - the very famous Russian suburb train "The Balls" - nick of ER2 (ÝÐ2)
And no more famous diesel manuever loco ChME3 (×ÌÝ3)
As to old Piko - almost all rolling stock have sufficient level of degradation now, and i dont have it and dont use it, trying to find out more fresh analogues of this cars.
------
As about stores:
Generally, there are 2 points at Moscow, which having their own sites:
1 - www.rocoland.ru
2- www.startset.ru
-------------
I know Fleishmann, that it's a very good company.
But how about Fleishman ICE 3 ?
Do You know any survey or story about it's test and detailed description ?
I was at Fleishmans web, but they havent any English version, and i cannot read anything.
Maybe anybody have PDF or link with documentation for ICE 3?
----
As to Russia, there are H0 and TT scale more popular, and in st.Pitersburg some companies are making models of soviet locos and cars.
And on the contrary, there are little N-gaugers in Russia and there are no national rolling stock at all! I use only models of russian locos which was exported by Soviet Union to EU and which models was occasionaly made in Germany. In addition, some USA rolling stock very like as Russian. Generally there are few such Russian-like models.
Although - there are very famous trains and locos which models, probably would be very popular in other countries.
For example - the very famous Russian suburb train "The Balls" - nick of ER2 (ÝÐ2)
And no more famous diesel manuever loco ChME3 (×ÌÝ3)
As to old Piko - almost all rolling stock have sufficient level of degradation now, and i dont have it and dont use it, trying to find out more fresh analogues of this cars.
------
As about stores:
Generally, there are 2 points at Moscow, which having their own sites:
1 - www.rocoland.ru
2- www.startset.ru
-------------
Michael aus Nbg - 16.09.09 16:14
Dear Vadim,
Fleischmann produces the ICE 1, ICE2 and ICE-T but NOT the ICE 3!
If you have enough time, may be the ICE3 will be produced by Hornby (see http://de.arnold.hornbyinternational.com/all-products/zugsets/hn-2063/ )
Greeting Michael
Fleischmann produces the ICE 1, ICE2 and ICE-T but NOT the ICE 3!
If you have enough time, may be the ICE3 will be produced by Hornby (see http://de.arnold.hornbyinternational.com/all-products/zugsets/hn-2063/ )
Greeting Michael
Thanks!
But I ve decided there are no any Hornby and no any Arnold for me!
I have no so large time for making long general repairing of any non professionally constructed loco...
Now i ll decide starting to amass money, and Fleishmann probably starts making good, dependable and workable ICE3 (i hope) :)
----------------
But I ve decided there are no any Hornby and no any Arnold for me!
I have no so large time for making long general repairing of any non professionally constructed loco...
Now i ll decide starting to amass money, and Fleishmann probably starts making good, dependable and workable ICE3 (i hope) :)
----------------
Hi Vadim,
I can understand your point quite well. But: I don't think another manufacturer will come up with an ICE3 - after Minitrix and Arnold/Hornby have them.
So, your choice is Minitrix or Hornby. Minitrix is running well, but lacks front/back light and comes with some mistakes in optical details. Hornby/Arnold looks better, has front/back light but nobody knows about the quality of the drive.
Well, I have combined both: My old Arnold ICE3 runs with the drive of a Minitrix ICE3. It was less than 3 hours of work to fit the Minitrix truck into the Arnold train. Compared to your work on Minitrix ICE1 these 3 hours seem to be a small effort.png)
.
Greetings,
Udo.
Zitat
But I ve decided there are no any Hornby and no any Arnold for me!
I have no so large time for making long general repairing of any non professionally constructed loco...
I can understand your point quite well. But: I don't think another manufacturer will come up with an ICE3 - after Minitrix and Arnold/Hornby have them.
So, your choice is Minitrix or Hornby. Minitrix is running well, but lacks front/back light and comes with some mistakes in optical details. Hornby/Arnold looks better, has front/back light but nobody knows about the quality of the drive.
Well, I have combined both: My old Arnold ICE3 runs with the drive of a Minitrix ICE3. It was less than 3 hours of work to fit the Minitrix truck into the Arnold train. Compared to your work on Minitrix ICE1 these 3 hours seem to be a small effort
.Greetings,
Udo.
Ok, i havent any experience with ICE 3 from both supplyers
but another product from Arnold (also 4 car passenger train HELVETIA) had practically nonseparable bodies of cars, very poor current pickup and rough couplings
I hope that original Arnold - ICE3 - also went not so long away from disastrous "helvetia"!
As to me - i need to get professional models which can dependably ride hours to hours without interruption of current pickup and derailment, moreover this trains must be easy for opening and servcing!
As i know, This can be achieved only for Marklin H0 Ski-like principal of current pickup.
It is Marklin - who is the single supplyer who make models with proffessional dependability for riding, as i see.
Trying to achieve it at N Scale i think the following:
Even when all wheels of loco are good suspended and springed, there are no guarantee that current pickup can stoped due to ocasionally nonremoved dirt. At this reason i start connecting to loco main circuit current pickup from all 3 remaining cars of my TRIX ICE1(i made "such" on Helvetia and it now never stops at all!). In addition i m dublicating now at my ICE ground rail by simultaneously used working catenary by means of 2 pantographs in parallel. (i newer seen that electric trains can ride with lovered pantographs :) )In this case probability of stoppage( especially at extra low speeds ) falls drammatically!
As to separate loco concerns (for freight trains for ex.) - I think, it is worth to use paired locos with the same DCC adjustments and decoders, and in case of stoppage one will push another.
Another and parrallel way is to remove dirt, but it's difficult at tunnels, and no guarantee about extremely full clearance (one can usually do it without microscope :) )
Please advice me, if possible the best authomated clearance car.
----------------
Thanks for Your attention for my paranoidal talks :)
but another product from Arnold (also 4 car passenger train HELVETIA) had practically nonseparable bodies of cars, very poor current pickup and rough couplings
I hope that original Arnold - ICE3 - also went not so long away from disastrous "helvetia"!
As to me - i need to get professional models which can dependably ride hours to hours without interruption of current pickup and derailment, moreover this trains must be easy for opening and servcing!
As i know, This can be achieved only for Marklin H0 Ski-like principal of current pickup.
It is Marklin - who is the single supplyer who make models with proffessional dependability for riding, as i see.
Trying to achieve it at N Scale i think the following:
Even when all wheels of loco are good suspended and springed, there are no guarantee that current pickup can stoped due to ocasionally nonremoved dirt. At this reason i start connecting to loco main circuit current pickup from all 3 remaining cars of my TRIX ICE1(i made "such" on Helvetia and it now never stops at all!). In addition i m dublicating now at my ICE ground rail by simultaneously used working catenary by means of 2 pantographs in parallel. (i newer seen that electric trains can ride with lovered pantographs :) )In this case probability of stoppage( especially at extra low speeds ) falls drammatically!
As to separate loco concerns (for freight trains for ex.) - I think, it is worth to use paired locos with the same DCC adjustments and decoders, and in case of stoppage one will push another.
Another and parrallel way is to remove dirt, but it's difficult at tunnels, and no guarantee about extremely full clearance (one can usually do it without microscope :) )
Please advice me, if possible the best authomated clearance car.
----------------
Thanks for Your attention for my paranoidal talks :)
Hi,
I'd guess Fleishman will not produce another reincarnation of ICE3 in the near furture. Why should they invest into such complicated project at this point in time where there are 2 competitors on the market? Maybe priorities might change when Maerklin is finally sold out, probably having Trix excorporated, or someone buys the whole bunch. Who knows.
As for the good company FL and ICE: They even managed to erratically assemble a whole series of DCC-ready ICEs with a motor for analog-only version that had a ground jumper on the brush cap, hence any decoder burned off instantly right after plugging 'em in.
As for the cleaning car: I do use both the Lux vacuum cleaner car and the grinding vehicle, sometimes also in conjunction with a "Roco Clean" rubber car running ahead. Needs a strong loco however. Both Lux cars are converted to DCC - they have turned out to be a good sink for old sucking Lenz decoders. LE077XF drives the vacuum with a electrolytic cap soldered behind the rectifier onto the car PCB in order to smooth away the low-frequency PWM, and LE0511 switches the polishing grinder.
Regards, Peter
I'd guess Fleishman will not produce another reincarnation of ICE3 in the near furture. Why should they invest into such complicated project at this point in time where there are 2 competitors on the market? Maybe priorities might change when Maerklin is finally sold out, probably having Trix excorporated, or someone buys the whole bunch. Who knows.
As for the good company FL and ICE: They even managed to erratically assemble a whole series of DCC-ready ICEs with a motor for analog-only version that had a ground jumper on the brush cap, hence any decoder burned off instantly right after plugging 'em in.
As for the cleaning car: I do use both the Lux vacuum cleaner car and the grinding vehicle, sometimes also in conjunction with a "Roco Clean" rubber car running ahead. Needs a strong loco however. Both Lux cars are converted to DCC - they have turned out to be a good sink for old sucking Lenz decoders. LE077XF drives the vacuum with a electrolytic cap soldered behind the rectifier onto the car PCB in order to smooth away the low-frequency PWM, and LE0511 switches the polishing grinder.
Regards, Peter
Ok!
Thanks,
I m also thinking about LUX as the best laundry service.
---
Vadim
Thanks,
I m also thinking about LUX as the best laundry service.
---
Vadim
Hi Vadim!
Please check TOMIX track cleaning car as well.
The Tomix is wellknown here as a perfect cleaner and in use with a lot of modelers, although it is cheaper. You can purchase the Tomix for about 50 Euro while the Lux costs more than twice.
BTW: So you've find your way to this forum as I suggested, I appreciate.........!!
Regards
Mathi
Please check TOMIX track cleaning car as well.
The Tomix is wellknown here as a perfect cleaner and in use with a lot of modelers, although it is cheaper. You can purchase the Tomix for about 50 Euro while the Lux costs more than twice.
BTW: So you've find your way to this forum as I suggested, I appreciate.........!!
Regards
Mathi
Hello Mathi!
Thanks for Tomix advice
Please also advice where can i buy this Tomix cleaning machines?
I mean internet stores which have good reputation and prices not as from airplanes :).
About Tomix i found the following link with GOOD PICTURES:
http://www.nscalesupply.com/ATL/ATL-TrackCleaner.html
On this link a cleaning disk rotates at horisontal plate.
My question:
Can this disc affect on turnout's wing rails, leading to cleaning mashine derailment?
May be LUX machine would be better?
Or, may be this machine was intended for cleaning only track without turnouts (ex.: strait tracks in deep tonnels)?
AND THERE:
A BIG PICTURES for LUX machine:
http://www.mrsonline.net/html/track_cleaner.html
One can see a vertical cleaning disks, which would be approximately parallel to turnout's wing rails, and i think thats it's lead to NO derailments.
Please tell me about Your REAL experience of both cleaning cars.
It would be very interesting to all, i believe!
------
Vadim
Thanks for Tomix advice
Please also advice where can i buy this Tomix cleaning machines?
I mean internet stores which have good reputation and prices not as from airplanes :).
About Tomix i found the following link with GOOD PICTURES:
http://www.nscalesupply.com/ATL/ATL-TrackCleaner.html
On this link a cleaning disk rotates at horisontal plate.
My question:
Can this disc affect on turnout's wing rails, leading to cleaning mashine derailment?
May be LUX machine would be better?
Or, may be this machine was intended for cleaning only track without turnouts (ex.: strait tracks in deep tonnels)?
AND THERE:
A BIG PICTURES for LUX machine:
http://www.mrsonline.net/html/track_cleaner.html
One can see a vertical cleaning disks, which would be approximately parallel to turnout's wing rails, and i think thats it's lead to NO derailments.
Please tell me about Your REAL experience of both cleaning cars.
It would be very interesting to all, i believe!
------
Vadim
Vadim,
here we go:
http://www.modellbahnshop-lippe.com/produkt/Tom...f-0/ein_produkt.html
or
http://www.dm-toys.de/pages/d/produkte/obergrup...328bd5fe2738f3ad4332
or
http://cgi.ebay.de/Tomix-6421-Schienenreinigung..._trksid=p3286.c0.m14
or
http://cgi.ebay.de/SCHIENENREINIGUNGSWAGGON-Sta..._trksid=p3286.c0.m14
Regards
Mathi
here we go:
http://www.modellbahnshop-lippe.com/produkt/Tom...f-0/ein_produkt.html
or
http://www.dm-toys.de/pages/d/produkte/obergrup...328bd5fe2738f3ad4332
or
http://cgi.ebay.de/Tomix-6421-Schienenreinigung..._trksid=p3286.c0.m14
or
http://cgi.ebay.de/SCHIENENREINIGUNGSWAGGON-Sta..._trksid=p3286.c0.m14
Regards
Mathi
Thanks for these links!
But my question remains :
Can this disc affect on turnout's wing rails, leading to cleaning mashine derailment?
May be LUX machine would be better?
Or, may be this machine was intended for cleaning only track without turnouts (ex.: strait tracks in deep tonnels)?
Please tell me about Your REAL experience of both cleaning cars.
It would be very interesting to all, i believe!
But my question remains :
Can this disc affect on turnout's wing rails, leading to cleaning mashine derailment?
May be LUX machine would be better?
Or, may be this machine was intended for cleaning only track without turnouts (ex.: strait tracks in deep tonnels)?
Please tell me about Your REAL experience of both cleaning cars.
It would be very interesting to all, i believe!
Well,
I'll try to give a summary of the users experience:
Both cleaner cars more or less (as any other cleaning car) may have some issues with switch drives placed on the layout and can interfere when working with cleaning disk. The vacuum is the great advantage to these cars.
Most users run the tomix car only but frequently vacuuming. The removal of dust, lint, fuss and hair from track cures good enough so there is no need for the cleaning disks that often.
A good performer for wet or dry cleaning behind the vacuum car is this:
http://www.noch.de/en/produktkatalog/listview.p...0158&spurweite=N
Easily clipped at a freight cars axle f. ex. does it make a good and job and they are pretty cheap.
Those cleaners can been run permanently with the train along the tracks and doing their job subtly and invisible.
Since you are not understanding german I hope any skilled modeler can give you more infos in english.
Regards
Mathi
I'll try to give a summary of the users experience:
Both cleaner cars more or less (as any other cleaning car) may have some issues with switch drives placed on the layout and can interfere when working with cleaning disk. The vacuum is the great advantage to these cars.
Most users run the tomix car only but frequently vacuuming. The removal of dust, lint, fuss and hair from track cures good enough so there is no need for the cleaning disks that often.
A good performer for wet or dry cleaning behind the vacuum car is this:
http://www.noch.de/en/produktkatalog/listview.p...0158&spurweite=N
Easily clipped at a freight cars axle f. ex. does it make a good and job and they are pretty cheap.
Those cleaners can been run permanently with the train along the tracks and doing their job subtly and invisible.
Since you are not understanding german I hope any skilled modeler can give you more infos in english.
Regards
Mathi
Ok, Thanks!
I went to this German forum because when i asked English people at English forumes - they didnt answer me about Trix and Fleishmann anymore than its names only.
Thanks for this German Forum and People who was very friendly and answered me much more about it!
---
Vadim
I went to this German forum because when i asked English people at English forumes - they didnt answer me about Trix and Fleishmann anymore than its names only.
Thanks for this German Forum and People who was very friendly and answered me much more about it!
---
Vadim
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